Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Research Wrap Up

Done.

Done and done.

With a final visit to the Literaturhaus, I finished my research on Monday. "Finished" used in the loosest sense, because my work in the last three weeks is just the beginning of (hopefully) a lot more research in the form of a Fulbright.

Some highlights from the Literaturarchivs:

1. THE REVIEW. As in, the one that Bäcker wrote before the war, that, after the war, caused him to devote his entire life to the Epitaph project, and change literary history forever (I mean, in my opinion).
2. Complete and extensive nachschrift 2 mark-ups.
3. A draft of Bäcker's dissertation.
4. A correspondence regarding designing a gypsy memorial at Mauthausen.
5. Manuscript for the stage version of nachschrift, which contains extensive source material NOT included in the poem.

Some highlights from the Literaturhaus:

1. An interview with Bäcker, wherein he describes what it was like growing up in Nazi Austria, including how the Hitler Youth was the first place he felt accepted and included (later, he described it as teenage her-worship), and how he developed his ideas for nachschrift.
2. Press release from radio show, entitled "Are We Really Going to our Deaths?" (English translation, taken from the very first page of nachschrift)
3. Article by Bäcker about Salman Rushdie...sort of unrelated, but I love me some Salman Rushdie.

I'm so happy.

So that is finished. I have a day and a half left in Vienna, and I'm completely broke, so it's about time to go home. Today I am going to attempt another walk, like the Ottakring walk Dr. Kling and I got lost during, only down by the Prater (amusement park).

I will see you stateside, Internet.

I'd like to hire a plane,
I'd see you in the morning.
When the day is fresh,
I'm coming home again.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

"That first bit was terrifying..."

As you may remember from my last post, I went to the theater last Wednesday night. Now, to say I like theater is an understatement. I love theater; performing, creating, you-name-it. So when Dr. Kling invited me to see an opera, I was on that like white on rice. However, as the performance drew closer, and Dr. Kling and his friend, Rory, discussed the piece were going to see, I was less and less sure that it was actually an opera, especially because I learned that there would be puppets involved.

I want to assure you: Wednesday night was one of the most terrifying and rewarding experiences with theater that I have ever had.

We saw a production called King of the Birds - Queen of the Blood, which included Salvatore Sciarrino's Infinito Nero and Peter Maxwell Davies' Eight Songs for a Mad King. The banner hanging outside the theater:



The "theater" itself was an old opera prop and scenery warehouse, renovated into a theater and several artist studies. I put "theater" in quotes because the room we were in was a four-story entryway, where set pieces used to be raised up to the large doors on the second-, third-, and fourth-floors. From where I was sitting, it looked like this:



That screen is hanging from the balcony on the second floor. Not a very good picture, but it sort of gives you an idea of the space. Also, it was shaped very oddly: thick at one end and thin at the other.

Right in front of us was the "stage":



Yes, you're seeing correctly. That is a raised canopy bed, with an orchestra behind it. That was the only space utilized by the actor, until the very end, when he escaped, and ran around the room (more on that later).

Now. The performance. I don't think I can describe them...so you'll have to make do with my impressions and observations instead.

The first number - Infinito Nero - was absolutely terrifying to me, for almost no reason that I could figure out. The piece itself is based on the terror of a mad nun (a real nun, who I guess kept journals...or something...), so the vocal part is mostly gutteral noises, ranging in pitch and volume, and switching between extremes constantly. The music, which was stripped down for this performance, Dr. Kling said, was mostly wind blown thrown flutes and clarinets. Not notes, or musical sound, mind you, but just the sound of wind pushed through the instrument. There was also slight violin and percussion accompaniment. This eery, other-worldly arrangement was accompanied by the bed sheets on the stage ripped from beneath from two knives, red paint dripped onto the white bedcovers, and the torn and stained sheet being raised four stories into the air into a bright white light.

I was absolutely terrified! Not in the way that I thought something scary was going to happen, but I think by the madness it so plainly portrayed. When something mental and internal is displayed so perfectly, it's scary, because the audience feels it, and those feelings are frightening.

The second part, Eight Songs for a Mad King, was less frightening, but just as brilliant. Davies wrote this half-hour opera in English (hooray!), because it's based on the journal and writings of King George the...Third? I don't remember. Anyway, the crazy George. The man who played the king had incredible range. I believe he was naturally a baritone, but I looked it up, and the vocal score spans five octaves. Just like the woman from the first piece, he effortlessly switched between high and low pitches, he screamed and whispered, and even growled some. It actually took me about five minutes to realize that it was in English, because it was so convoluted. Then, I kept looking at the German subtitles (projected onto the white screen shown in the second picture) to figure out what he was saying, like that was going to help. The bed was transformed from a canopy to a cage, and at the end he escaped, ran up to the orchestra, and smashed a violin.

Smashed. A violin. Agaist a pillar.

I jumped ten feet in the air when that happened; it surprised the hell out of me. The performance ended with all the performers filing out of the performance space, while the king howled. It was amazing: The entire audience just sat there, staring at the door the left by, unsure whether the play was over, unsure whether they were allowed to begin clapping.

I told Dr. Kling later that while the man who played the king was amazing, and probably spends all of his free time on vocal rest, I would be interested to see a performance where instead of being all over the place, the king's madness was portrayed as very focused and centered, until the end when the violin is destroyed. I think that I would be more frightened by someone who seems sane, than someone who is ranting and raving. Especially is that apparent sanity is juxtaposed by the amazing, howling vocal score.

I really can't accurately describe the performance, as I said earlier, but I did want to share the experience and my observations with you, Internet. I must say, although my immediate reaction was to turn to Dr. Kling and say, "I have no idea what that was," I think it was a life-changing performance, or at least one which changes every single idea I ever had about art and theater.

If you get a chance to see either piece, ever...do it.

Leave comments! And check back again soon: We're going back to the Literaturhaus tomorrow, so maybe I'll finally post an update on my work.

Thursday, July 23, 2009

smashed to pieces (in the still of the night)

That quotation is installed on the side of an air defense tower in Vienna, built during one of the World Wars. There are a couple scattered throughout the city, supposedly indestructible. The experts say that if the city tried to demolish them, it would destroy the surrounding neighborhoods. The quotation wasn't originally there (after all, it's not the type of sentiment one wants to hear during wartime), but was added as installation art a few years ago. It's written on one side in English and on the other side in German: "Zerschmettert in Stücke (Im Frieden der Nacht)." The remaining two sides repeat "In the still of the night" in both languages. I don't know why, but I love it.

I've done a lot in the last week, Internet, although I haven't been posting. Actually, I had trouble loading my pictures onto my computer. My harddrive filled up (something like 5 MB available...yikes!) and I messed up iPhoto trying to empty it. Anyway, I have photos now, and a super update of my adventures.



Secession Museum
Before World War One, a couple of artists (most notably Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele) decided they didn't like the way art worked in Vienna. So they succeeded from the prominent artist group and formed their own club. The Secession Museum was created to display modern, experimental art. Right now there's an exhibit called "The Death of the Audience" that examines art which involves the viewer...is asks the question, when the viewer is part of the artistic process, who is the audience? Who is the artist? It was super interesting. The large gallery had golden tinfoil and balls of red paper on the floor, that visitors could accidently or purposefully kick or play with...changing and recreating the display as artists, not just audience. Neat.



Ottakring Hike
Vienna has trails like the one shown above all over the city. They take you from very urban areas to very rural areas and back again, in an average of two-and-a-half, three hours. They also all combine to be one superhike that takes you all over the city in seven days. Anyway, Dr. Kling and I attempted to follow the route shown above, which begins right near my apartment, at the Ottarking U3 station (where the map says "Start"). I say attempted because about an hour into it, we made a wrong turn and got hopelessly lost for about two hours. See that star-shaped mark on the top left-hand corner of the map? Yeah, that's about the last thing we saw. We wandered around a suburban neighborhood (100% downhill, blegh) until we found a busstop. We took the bus to the train station, the train to the subway, and finally the subway to our respective apartments.



Schönbrunn Tiergarten
"Tiergarten" = Animal Garden = ZOO! Remember how much I love dinosaurs? That's how much I love zoos. I get a huge kick out of seeing the animals. The elephant shone above was my favorite animal of the day because (1) I love elephants and (2) he was chewing on a stick, like a puppy. Aww. I saw lots of baby animals, including a baby flamingo, which looks nothing like a grown up flamingo. They're little white fuzzballs. The Schönbrunn Zoo isn't big, but it's very comprehensive. Right now they're installing a South America exhibit. But they had a reptile house, and an insect house, and a rainforest house, plus African animals and polar animals (including Polar Bears! They're called "Eisbaren" in German, which translates to "Ice Bears," which I find to be very to-the-point).



Prunksaal at the ÖNB
Ohhh...pretty. This is the "Prunksaal," or State Hall, of the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek (the ÖNB). I'm not completely sure if you can still check books out of here, although by the looks of it, you can (unless that person is on the ladder for funsies). Basically, it's beautiful and filled with books and I can't think of a better combination.

So that's basically what I've been up to, besides hanging out in the archives, looking at old stuff. I'll probably post again soon (within the next day or two) to describe what we've found in the Archives and discuss this amazing, wacky theatre piece we saw last night.

As usual, more photos can be found on my Facebook. Click here if you're not registered, but still want to see (Mom and Dad).

Comment, and then check back and comment again!

Saturday, July 18, 2009

"Oh to be young and feel love's keen sting."

Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince has been out for four days...and I have seen it three times. Surely, Internet, this is the life.

As promised, I will explain exactly what I'm doing, work-wise, now that I'm here. After visiting the Literaturhaus, Reading Room, and Literary Archives, Dr. Kling and I have decided that there is no possible way that I'd be able to do any actual research in the next two weeks. First, because there's a lot of sources. Second, they're in German, which I can barely speak. Instead, I'm going to compose a list of resources (an annotated bibliography of sorts), so that when I'm applying for the Fulbright Scholarship, I can write what specifically is in Vienna that I absolutely cannot get in America. So, that's about it...not as exciting as I originally made it out to be.

I've continued my exploration of the city, visiting the Secession Museum and Leopold Museum, as well as...



The Museum of Natural History
Ohmygod, dinosaurs! I think I need to preface this by saying that I love dinosaurs about as much as six-year-old boys love dinosaurs. They are so freaking cool, I almost can't stand it. Clearly, I'm agitated just thinking about how neat they are. Anyway...the weather was super hot the day that I went, but my thoughts were, "This is a big tourist place. It must have air conditioning. Where better to go on a hot day?" Wrong. As I sweated my way through five rooms of rocks, trying to find dinosaurs, I began to rethink my decision. Especially because there were five. Rooms. Of rocks. Although, it was kind of funny, because I wasn't reading any of the accompanying information (since it's in German), so very often I would walk from one room to the next and be like, "...the hell? How could this possibly relate to what I was just looking at?" I must say, it made the experience interesting, albeit frustrating. But I found the dinosaurs, which was AWESOME. And I found the bear/lion/seal and elephant/giraffe/whale and antelope/bison/oxen rooms, which was cool (although again...organization?).

Here are two more pictures/thoughts from my trip:



BIRDS ARE HUGE. Holy crap. I mean, I live in New Jersey, where birds are the size of my fist, and even hawks aren't that big. But apparently some birds are just giant killing machines. I don't like it.



I'm including this picture because it's just plain weird, and there are probably better ways to catalog mice. But no, this was just an entire case filled with drawers, with what appeared to be glued-together mice sort of tossed haphazardly into it. This is one of the reasons I wished I could read the information next to it, or at least ask a curator who bummed their way through this job.

When I woke up yesterday it was thunder storming and soverycold. So I hung out in my apartment all day, cleaning, napping, and researching graduate schools. I might have found my ideal Comparative Literature program (squee!), but I'm still looking into some other schools. Fingers crossed, Internet.

Today, since the weather is lovely, Dr. Kling and I are going for a hike, then seeing the opera Rigoletto at the rathaus (City Hall).

I've been feeling a little homesick, so comment and tell me you miss me.

Auf Wiedersehen!

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Give your feet a chance, they'll do all the thinking

I made it to Vienna! I've been here for five days so far...and it's been wonderful. This city is gorgeous, and not just the "historic" parts or the "nice" parts. Everything is pretty. I'll be walking around, see a fancy building, and assume it's a museum or government building, go towards it, and discover that it's just another apartment building/office/shop. An overview, in pictures, of what I've done so far:



Flying Into Vienna
First of all, this was the worst six and a half hours in my life. Why? No in-flight entertainment. Luckily, I was seated between two people close to my age, who were just as completely bored as me. The girl to my left was Canadian, attends FIT, and was going to Croatia for vacation with her Viennese boyfriend and his European friends. The boy on my right was Israeli, coming home from three months in South America. He talked about how he had done his three years in the army, and now was traveling before he started school. Overall, very interesting people with which to be stuck in one place for hours on end.



My Apartment
It's actually bigger than I thought it would be! The picture on the left is of my entryway/kitchen/shower, and the right is my bedroom/living room. I also have my own WC, but it's down the hall. I'm on the fourth floor, with no elevator, so I'm getting a workout walking up and down steps. I really like it, except when it comes to sleeping. They don't have air conditioning in Vienna (except in really public, tourist-y places), so I keep my windows open all day and night. This would be fine, except that I live down the street from the U-bahn (subway), which is above-ground at this end. At night, when the train passes, it echoes down the street and sounds like it's going by right outside my window. The light also comes directly into my apartment in the morning, so it usually wakes me up at least an hour earlier than I set my alarm for. Other than that, I really like it. It still kind of feels more like a hotel than a "home," but I've got time.



My Neighborhood
I live at the corner of Lornezmendlgasse and Thaliastrasse. I took this photo halfway to the U-bahnhof (subway station), looking back towards my street. I'm in the 16th district, near the Ottakring station, which is about as far from the city center as La Salle is from City Hall. Dr. Kling said that this neighborhood, while it was never a "hood" (his word), has traditionally been very working class, although it been getting nicer recently. I've got lots of food options in the area: a Schnitzelhaus, which is sort of a fast food chain schnitzel place; a Billa, which is a grocery store chain; a Frühk, bakery chain; and a Wurstelstand (sausage stand) right by the subway. There's also a few internet cafes and playgrounds. Sunday night I took my work to the park and sat and wrote for a little while. It was very nice.



Stephansdom
I'm pretty sure I've been here every day, even if it's just for ten minutes to meet Dr. Kling. It makes me think of Travel Study 2008 (actually, most things in Vienna to...wonder why...). They're doing restoration work on one of the towers, or something. I went inside the first day that I was here, and took some pictures. But mostly I just meet Dr. Kling or wander around the pedestrian zone.



Museums Quartier
I haven't explored the actual museums too much, although I did walk around the neighborhood, and visited the Kunsthalle (Art Hall). There's an exhibit right now called Porträt, about different photographers that specialize in portraiture. It was neat. There were a lot of naked people. Today I'm going to go to the Natural History Museum, which isn't in the Museums Quartier, but right across the street.



Schönbrunn Palace
I had forgotten how big and beautiful and yellow it was! Absolutely amazing. I actually didn't go inside this time, rather, I walked around the gardens in the back. I wish he had been able to explore them on Travel Study, because they're absolutely amazing and perfectly symmetrical. They had a maze and a labyrinth. I did both. The maze was frustrating because you had to choose your path, so if you didn't get to the lookout terrace in the middle, it was your own fault. The labyrinth was frustrating because they're weren't any options, and you were just at the mercy of the path, so it took a long time to get the middle anyway, but you couldn't do anything about it.



National Library
Cue harps and trumpets. This is the reason I'm here. I actually didn't get there until yesterday, although Dr. Kling took me to the Literaturhaus on Monday (Literature House, a public library that specializes in literary studies. Awesome). We spent a few hours in the reading room, which is not as pretty and much more modern than the room we visited on Travel Study. Tomorrow we're visiting the archives, finally.

I've taken many more pictures that this, so check my Facebook for the impending album.

I'll write tomorrow about my actual work and more details about living in a foreign city.

If you're reading this, I probably miss you. Leave comments!




Wednesday, July 8, 2009

things have changed for me, and that's okay, i'm on my way

Today, Internet, I would like to talk about packing. But first, an announcement: I finally cleaned my room for pretty much the first time in months. Probably since last summer. Granted, I haven't been living here for about 3/4 of the last year...but still. That's a long time. So, for your viewing pleasure, and my roommates' extreme gratification, some before and after pictures:




And two more after pictures:



Thank you, thank you. Neat; now I have a words and pictures blog. Just like that!

On to the subject at hand: packing, particularly for three weeks in a foreign country when one has NO IDEA what she will be doing. My "To Pack" list encompasses four major categories: (1) clothing, (2) toiletries, (3) academic stuff and (4) other. The problem, I think, is that I feel like I'm moving my entire life for almost a month. Also, I don't want to not bring something, need or want it once I'm there, and have to spend money on buying it again. My mother suggests that I pack like a traveler, minimally, and carrying clothes around with me while I'm over there, in case I'm sweaty but want to go out to dinner and need a new, clean shirt. The problem here, however, is that since I have an apartment and everything...I don't want to live like a traveler. I want to live like a resident, since for three weeks, that's what I am.

Another problem: how many bags should I pack? I want to have room to bring souvenirs home for the people I love and those that I don't love so much, but asked me to buy them things. So I feel like that would necessitate two checked bags. But, ugh, I do not like being weighed down with extra bags. Also, I'm bringing a carry on luggage piece (my to-die-for "Indiana Jones" bag that I adore), just in case my bags get lost for a day or two. But that's going to be a lot of partially-empty luggage, especially if I bring my backpack as my personal item.

Sigh...the trials and tribulations of a world traveler...so tough...(haha)

If you have any suggestions or hints, Internet, I would be very grateful if you left a comment or two.


OMFG.
VIENNA TOMORROW.
I'm freaking out.

Monday, July 6, 2009

We'll stay awake through summer like we own the heat

I would like to take a break, Internet, from regularly scheduled programming to interject a quick note about my favorite holiday, the Fourth of July.

Why is this my favorite holiday? Is it because the American Revolution is my favorite period in history? Is it because of my deep-seated admiration for the Founding Fathers? Is it because I so avidly believe in the American Dream and everything it stands for?

Well...no. It's because I love any holiday where the emphasis is on friends, beach, beer, hamburgers, and blowing shit up. If we celebrated Ash Wednesday by drinking and lighting fireworks, it would be my favorite holiday.

Update on Austria: OHMYGODILEAVEINTHREEDAYS. I've been so excited for so many months, and now I can't wrap my mind around the fact that I'm leaving this week. I've crossed a few things off my to-do list since last we spoke, so here's an update:

1. Clean my room.
2. Clean my bathroom.
3. Clean my car.
4. Call my debit card company.
5. Edit my Honors Project.
6. Rent an international cell phone.
7. Refill my prescription.
8. Pack.
9. Laundry.

Tomorrow: cleaning my room so I can go to Philadelphia on Tuesday. It's so messy I took "Before" pictures.

Hope you had a great holiday weekend, Internet!